First Day On My Own

This morning I said goodbye to Travis for the next two weeks. We did a little high five and a casual “love ya, see ya soon” type deal since I’m not real big on hugs, even with family.  A cab came to pick him up because it was less hassle then forcing the dogs back in the car again, plus it meant I could sleep in a couple more hours and drag out every lovely moment of our first hotel experience (which I most definitely did).  It took me a few moments to get back to sleep because I was so busy listening to the call to prayers echoing throughout the city from all the mosques…  it was my first time hearing these and I could have listened forever, to say it brought peace to my nervous heart is an understatement.

When I did finally roll out of bed just before eight (since I’m usually up with the dogs and horses by six-thirty, this was sleeping in for me), I was greeted by pouring, cold rain.  It put a huge damper on my plans of exploring the city before heading back to Kupres.  I tried to while away some time potty breaking the dogs, taking full advantage of the free breakfast provided by the hotel, and stretching out my shower with its endless amounts of hot water, but in the end, I had to give in that today wasn’t going to be one for exploring.  So I got the pack resettled in the car and headed out of town.

I cried the whole first hour of the drive.  I am so nervous about being alone for the next two weeks.  The weight of it all hit me as I left the city and I thought about everything I’d suddenly be responsible for: having to take care of all the animals without someone there to back me up, figuring out how to make a fire so I can heat the cabin (Travis showed me but I wasn’t real good at it), and most of all, dealing with the two bosses on the farm myself (both of whom are absolutely wonderful and both of whom separately assured Travis they’d take good care of me… and both of whom are men, so even though I absolutely trust them and believe I am 100% safe here, this is a huge challenge for me).  I want to believe I’m a strong, independent woman who doesn’t need to depend on anyone, but lets face it, I’ve managed to avoid being alone with unnerving success since my divorce, and the idea of being alone in a foreign country has every cell in my body saying “what the hell are you thinking?”

I made the drive back to Kupres fine; the dogs were thrilled to be back.  I spent the afternoon trying to relax with a Harry Potter book (this is my second time through the series on this trip, Travis is on his fourth!).  During evening stables, Mate (boss one) came down to help me bring the horses in.  He asked how I was feeling about being there, reminded me that he, Marko, and both the girls are only a phone call away, and we made tentative plans to go visit the wild horses (so excited!) this weekend.  It was kind of him, and reassuring to know that they were all looking out for me.  Afterwards, I watched one of the prettiest sunsets I’ve seen since being here, and I finally started to feel my anxiety subside.  I can do this, I’m going to be okay.  Only 13 days left to get through!

Winter is Coming

Today has been an exciting day, for all the wrong reasons.  These sort of days are bound to happen on a trip as long as this one, but they sure do make us miss home sometimes.

The day started with the promise of foul weather incoming over the next few days.  This wouldn’t be a huge issue, except that Travis is leaving for the States tomorrow and flying out of Sarajevo, a three hour drive over mountains from Kupres.  The prospect of bad weather had us deciding that we had better make for Sarajevo a day early so there was no risk of Travis missing his flight.  This also meant a hotel for the night, situating the cats for a couple days on their own, and packing seven dogs in to a car that really are not keen to be crammed together for long lengths of time.  The cost of a hotel was my main concern, as my finances are strained well past the breaking point already; thank god for parents who were willing to lend a helping hand there.

On the way to Sarajevo, we made our scheduled stop in Bugojno to have Syn and Wasi seen by our vet.  Both dogs seemed stable this morning, but were clearly still not improving.  The vet diagnosed them both with Babesia, a dangerous tick borne illness that is prevalent and often fatal here in BiH.  As a precaution, he recommended treating all six of our dogs with Imizol to head it off in the others and hopefully get Syn and Wasi on the way to recovery.  Everyone but Syn reacted fine to the injection; she promptly vomited and has been going downhill ever since.  There’s nothing worse then being on the road with a sick dog, and its thousands of times worse when the thought is in the back of your head that the disease is often fatal.  However, Syn did eat a full dinner tonight, and seems to be enjoying the hotel digs (she and Wasi are even being featured on the hotel’s instagram account, check them out @hotelazizasarajevo), so we’re hoping the medication is starting to kick in.  A blood transfusion is the next step, and that’s a daunting undertaking no matter where you are, so I’m hoping hard it doesn’t come to that.

Following the vet visit, we headed to the auto shop to attempt to finally replace the battery in the Suby, which has been dying steadily since Austria.  My trusty Subaru Forester has been as amazing as anyone could ask a car to be over the last seven years.  I bought her in CA in 2012, brand new, the first vehicle I’d ever purchased.  Since then, she’s travelled not only through over 25 states with me, but also through nearly half the countries of Europe with more to come.  She’s slowing down though, and the battery isn’t the only thing that needs some help (aside from the battery, she needs a routine oil change and minor service, new brakes, and her fuel injectors are in rough shape).  We’re doing our best to get her taken care of as we can afford it.  Unfortunately, while attempting to purchase her a new battery, we discovered that there is another problem, one which we do not currently have an actual name for because the mechanic spoke no English and the auto parts clerk’s was limited to “the engine is broke.”

What that means is anyone’s guess, but it certainly wasn’t the kind of news we needed on a day when we’d already spent the little remaining savings I had left treating sickly dogs.  Worse, the mechanic refused to do any actual diagnostics because as he literally pointed out by tapping the Subaru symbol and throwing up his hands, they don’t stock parts for Suby’s here.  Another blow on an already shitty day.  Since we’re in Sarajevo and its a major city, I’m going to try to find an auto shop here that may be able to at least order the parts in, but I’ll admit that this is an area where I always feel like a fish out of water.  One of the main reasons that I opted to travel Europe in the company of my cousin was that I knew there was the chance of running in to car issues, and I wanted someone around that had some idea of what they might be talking about.  The prospect of having to deal with this alone after Travis leaves tomorrow, in a country with no Subaru dealership, and with a notable language barrier not to mention my own lack of auto knowledge has me bordering on an anxiety attack already and its still a whole sleep away.

I’m trying to remind myself that this is the sort of thing that I need to learn to face and deal with in order to grow in to the complete person I want to be.  Overcoming adversity, whether its sick dogs or a car whose “engine in broke,” is half the point of this entire trip in the first place.  But I freely admit to being nervous, even downright scared.  As of tomorrow, I’ll be entirely on my own (if I don’t count the furry crew) for the very first time since I was married over five years ago…  and it seems like the problems are piling up as fast as the snow I can smell in the air.  Winter is coming, and I’m not at all sure that I’m ready to face it.  But I guess I have to be don’t I?

LOOKING BACK: Sick as a Dog

Warning: Longer post!

One of the most stressful parts of travelling with pets is the fear of what will happen if one (or all) of them get sick, injured, or otherwise in to the sort of trouble that animals have a knack for getting in to.  With twelve in home pets and seven horses, vet visits have always been a regular part of my life, but the worry about them increases tenfold when you’re living on the road in unfamiliar countries.  Cultural differences can impact everything from office hours, emergency access, medication types, surgical standards, and my worst fear, the emotional value of a pet.  This weekend we’ve been dealing with two dogs who have picked up what are likely tick borne illnesses, and its had me reflecting on the veterinary experiences we’ve had on this trip so far (of which there have been quite a few).

First, for those considering travel with pets, its important to mention that we did a whole lot of pre-trip preparation before embarking on this journey.  All twelve of our animals were Passported, wormed, vaccinated, and cleared by a veterinarian for travel.  We had to research every single country that we were considering visiting to ensure that they would meet import requirements no matter what border we crossed.  Additionally, because half of our dogs have pre-existing conditions, we stocked up on a variety of prescription pain medications to be sure we could keep them comfortable for the duration of the trip.  And of course, there’s the need to be prepared for fleas, ticks, and other parasites.  The total preparation costs for the animals alone exceeded $2,500… I’m still paying some of it off!

We encountered our first vet fairly early in to our journey.  Following Denmark, our plan was to proceed to Norway before visiting the other Scandinavian countries.  Both Norway and Finland (like the United Kingdom), require that dogs have a tapeworm treatment 24 hours prior to entering the country.  So our first visit to a vet was to fulfil this requirement.  The vet in Denmark was equivalent to one we would see in England, most especially in terms of cost.  It cost around $300, and ultimately would turn out to have been a complete waste of money…  this was the first instance of my poor planning skills coming to life; we never made it to Norway.

The next vet exposure came in the Czech Republic.  On leaving Poland, we had noticed a mass in Raj’s groin area.  Initially I assumed it was an abscess that needed draining, but when I was unable to preform that minor operation on my own (I have some experience in that particular area), we decided to have a vet examine the growth.  We were staying with a HelpX host at the time, and they were friendly with their veterinarian, who they invited to come visit and took a look at Raj at the same time.  The vet was very friendly, though not entirely comfortable with his English (it was actually very good, as we tried to reassure him).  His opinion was that it was possibly a hernia, my fear, or a retained testicle.  He advised us to keep an eye on it for the time being.

Our next stop was Austria, and we were in a vet’s office within the first week.  Jäger decided that he didn’t want the cats to be left out of this vet business I suppose, and he decided to get in on the action by jumping out of the caravan directly in to Moomkin’s hungry mouth.  Moomkin is decidedly NOT cat friendly, and I literally threw myself over the bottom half of the caravan door and onto him to free Jäger from his very dangerous jaws.  Jäger escaped to freedom and had no outward signs of damage, but he was clearly mentally shaken and over the course of the next hour, seemed to grow incredibly uncomfortable, with distinct swelling of his abdomen.  A quick Google search (always dangerous) brought to light the potential for severe internal bleeding even without external marks, and I immediately rushed him off to the nearest emergency vet.

A series of x-rays and over $150 dollars later, a still clearly painful Jäger was returned to me by a laughing veterinary nurse, who informed me that his discomfort and swollen belly were due entirely to the ENORMOUS amount of food he had obviously ingested that morning.  I spent the entire ride home threatening to feed my kitten to Moomkin after all for scaring me half to death and wasting our money just because he had decided to be a fat ass.  We saw the Austrian vet again not long after for a check up and ultrasound of Raj’s groin, and they jokingly asked if our kitten had survived his overeating episode.  They were also able to reassure us that Raj’s growth was not a hernia, as feared, but likely an infected haematoma.   We discussed surgery options and agreed to schedule it the week following.

Unfortunately, our time in Austria was, in a word, eventful, and we weren’t able to make it back to the vet’s there.  It would be another few weeks, in Croatia, where Raj would finally have his surgery.  The Croatian vet office was the first time that I truly felt the cultural differences come in to play.  We were not in a major city, or along the busy tourist coast, but buried deep in the mountains, in one of the poorest parts of the country.  The vet clinic was clearly more used to treating livestock then pets, though we were lucky to be seen by the vet that our hosts had recommended as the best for small animals.  She scheduled his surgery the next day, taking me at my word that the vet’s in Austria had ruled a hernia out.

Raj’s growth burst on the way to the vet’s the following day, covering my car with blood (gross), and leaving me feeling guilty and panicky for not having dealt with it sooner.  On our arrival, no less then four veterinarians came in to give opinions on Raj has he lay bleeding on the table.  They gave him two shots of anaesthetic as I was standing there, and when he was mostly asleep, ushered me out and told me to return four hours later.  I signed no paperwork approving surgery, they asked no questions about his medical history, and I don’t think they actually knew his name.  It was a very different experience to what it would have been in England.

Raj came out of the surgery fine.  They didn’t send the Little Man home with a cone, and since he’s a determined licker, we had to improvise with a box to keep him away from his surgical site.  We also had to return to the clinic every day for antibiotic shots, as pills weren’t available.  The vets were lovely, even if they were a bit less open about… well, anything actually.  To this day, I have no idea what the growth actually was or what may have caused it; they never debriefed us about anything, and only reassured Travis it wasn’t cancerous when he asked directly.  That was a bit disconcerting, but it was hard to complain about the other side of things, the cost… the total cost of the surgery and post-treatment came to under $100, and they generously waited until the first of the month for me to get paid to be able to afford it.  That’s right, they performed a surgery for foreign strangers, without ever taking any of my personal information, knowing in advance that they would have to wait nearly a week for payment.  How’s that for generous?

Our veterinary experiences in BiH have been the most culturally unique so far.  We walked in with Kova on our third day in country.  The receptionist called in the only fluently English speaking vet in the practice, which shocked me since he was clearly busy elsewhere and we didn’t have an appointment.  They gave us the works for Kova, which would have easily cost us over $300 back home.  They charged us 95 Bosnian marks (around $45), and when I was 5 marks short in cash, the attending veterinarian pulled the balance out of his own pocket and waved off my insistence I could run to an ATM.  When we returned with a swollen faced Kova a week later, they greeted us like old friends, treating both her and Wasi (he has a wart on his ear and needed some wormer), again without an appointment.  They then invited us for drinks, where we enjoyed homemade Rakija from one of the vet techs (who we now call Dr. Rakija), homemade cheese, and fascinating conversation.  Before we left, the vet gave me his private number and insisted we call him next time we were in town so that we could have a meal together as friends.  Drinking with the vets, now that’s something you don’t experience at home!

We will get to see our BiH vets sooner then anticipated tomorrow, and sadly not because we have free time for a meal.  Syn and Wasi have both spent the weekend running temperatures, eating only reluctantly, and clearly feeling under the weather.  Thanks to our preparations, we’ve had Carprofen (an NSAID) on hand to keep the fevers under control, but we’re pretty certain that they have both contracted a tick borne illness that will need treatment with antibiotics.  Despite our best efforts, regular tick treatments, and intense tick searches, the tick infestation in BiH is unlike anything I have ever seen before.  Travis once spent two hours pulling over 150 ticks off of Syn alone.  She and Wasi have been the ones that have spent the most time with me on the trail, so it makes sense they’re the ones that have gotten hit with whatever disease those nasty insects are carrying.

While I have been quietly freaking out all weekend with worry over my dogs, I’ve been surprised that my fear is no more than it would be in the same situation back home.  Despite the fact that the clinic here is in no way comparable in medical advances, equipment quality, etc, I feel confident that the vet knows what he’s doing and will give my dogs the best treatment possible to get them healthy again.  And while there is no doubt that dogs and cats here are seen more as working animals then pets, our conversations with this vet in particular have reassured me that to him, at least, my pets are worthy of the best treatment because animals have value regardless of their working status.

Animal lovers from countries where animals are kept solely as companions are often quick to judge other cultures for their treatment of animals as more practical parts of their daily existence.  I know that I was predisposed to assume that veterinary treatment would be somehow less, and that my animals would be valued differently because they served no “purpose.”  Our veterinary experiences in each of the counties we’ve visited have really opened my eyes to how important it is not to judge what you don’t know, and to be open to trusting even when things may not initially seem to be what you’re used to.  More importantly, they’ve shown me that animal lovers are all the same no matter where in the world they are, and that’s a really lovely thing to know.

 

 

THE PEOPLE WE MEET: Petra & Anamarija

I recently watched Into The Wild for the first time, a movie I found somewhat difficult to like.  However, the lesson of the story, essentially that people need people, struck a heavy chord.  No matter how stunning the architecture, how beautiful the views, how rich the culture or intriguing the history, nothing compares to the memories we’ve made with the people we’ve met along this journey.  Travel without people, without connections and relationships, is lacking.  Our travels have not been lacking.

On Saturdays, two of the local girls from Kupres come to the holiday farm to ride some of the horses and, in their own words, get a break from school and home and take in some good old fashioned horse therapy.  I’m fortunate that the girls are eager to show the newbie a good time, and are happy to take me on some of the longer, more intense trails that I miss out on riding on my own every day.  Today was the first time that I was able to ride with both girls together, and they definitely took me for the ride of a lifetime, and not only because of the stunning scenery and the pure thrill of a ride through this countryside.

Petra is 17 years old and has one more year left in high school before she heads off to university.  From her description, the school system here in Bosnia and Herzegovina (BiH) sounds pretty similar to what I’m used to in the States.  She isn’t sure what she wants to study in college yet, but continuing her education seems to be a given: “There is nothing I can do with just this schooling.”  On the trail, she’s a source of interesting information I’ve never heard before.  She introduces me to berries that are edible and instructs me to sort of roll them around in my mouth to fight off thirst.  If ingested, these berries are a great way to clear out the system.  Her English is excellent (both girls’ is) but she asks about what we call pine cones, and then tells me that their presence indicates how fresh and clean the air is.  I’m fascinated by how much she knows about her environment, this is not an area where I am very knowledgeable.

Anamarija is 15, though you wouldn’t guess it.  She wants to move to America one day; she isn’t sure where yet, anywhere will do.  She’s almost as obsessed with The Lord of the Rings as Travis is, and after our ride, I make the mistake of getting those two on that topic (don’t get me wrong, I love LOTR, but since Travis has watched all million of the movies no less then 100 times since moving to England ten months ago, I might be slightly soured on the them for the moment).  Anamarija leads most of our ride, and she’s a wonderful guide.  She also rides at a riding club where she does some show jumping, and when I express a longing to be able to jump again, she agrees to take me along with her next time she goes!

Both girls are essentially self taught equestrians, and incredibly impressive ones at that.  They’ve been a part of the team at the holiday ranch for almost ten years (more then half their lives), and have not only watched it grow in to the success it is now, but have played an integral part in making it so successful.  The girls work here full time during the summer holidays, guiding trails and interacting with guests.  They’ve been on board for the breeding and breaking of almost all of the current riding string, and the horses are absolutely a credit to their knowledge, ability, and pure skill.  I spend hours listening to them tell me about the horses I’m now riding, about what they were like as babies, cooing at foal photos and admiring both of their photography skills.

These two girls may be young, but they have already accomplished so much that they can be proud of, and I’m incredibly impressed.  With their passion for horses (and all animals… they’ve insisted on meeting, and loving on, all twelve of mine too) and their dedication to a work they love, they remind me of myself at that age.  Its a bittersweet reminder, perhaps one I needed but didn’t know I was looking for.  So often I boil my life down to the first twelve years of my adulthood, which have been strewn with considerably more trauma, failures, and disappointments then they have with passion, pride, or success.  Spending the day with these two girls, I remembered the girl that I used to be, the one who loved horses, who knew exactly who she wanted to be when she grew up and what she wanted to do.  They reminded me that my foundation in life isn’t the last twelve years, but the eighteen years that came before that, and that I had a childhood that was full of love, family, passion, clarity, pride, and dreams.  In making me remember some of the best moments of my past, they gave me an unexpected vision for my future.  I’m grateful to them.

As a side note, we had a proper gallop through the mountainside forest today, and as I was flying along, dodging trees, bending around turns in the trail, and letting my spirit soar with the sound of hoofbeats, a scene flashed in to my head.  You know the one, where Arwen is riding with Frodo through the forest to escape the wraiths?  Yeah, we were doing exactly that… I got to have my very own LOTR moment, and it was seriously awesome.

DOG RESCUE: Kova

It’s probably unsurprising that animals not my own feature fairly prominently along my travel journey.  What is surprising is that it took me over three months in to the trip to add another member to the menagerie, especially after we lost Sami and, as Travis liked to remind me on a regular basis, our numbers had become uneven.  In fact, on the very same day that we would pick up our first rescue of the trip, we had barely managed to talk ourselves out of adding another bunny to the crew.  Has anyone ever seen a LionHead baby rabbit?  Then you know the strength of will it took to walk out of that pet store with nothing but the dog food and new mastiff collars we’d gone in for.  Ok, so no bunny.  But the temptation was there, which was probably a clue that my heart was feeling pretty vulnerable that day.

Before I get in to the specifics of our first rescue, its probably worth mentioning to other animal lovers that are looking to travel in the Balkans that the street dog “crisis” if you will, is very prominent here.  I have quite a few friends back in England with Romanian rescue dogs, and we were jokingly warned in advance by a Serbian friend that all the puppies milling around were going to spot us as suckers in seconds.  So we were prepared for what we’d see while here, and had hardened our hearts appropriately in anticipation.  For myself, I had drawn a line in the sand: I did not need, want, nor could I afford any additional animals.  Period.

Mostly, being prepared worked.  We cooed over the kittens at the rest stops in Croatia, but left them easily after admiring their ability to convince every driver that stopped for a bite.  We passed ragged looking mountain dogs in the hills and reminded ourselves that those dogs were likely actively working on guarding a flock just over the rise.  In the towns and cities, we watched packs of dogs work together to monitor territory and beg for scraps.  All in all, it is actually a fascinating part of our travel experience to see how these animals survive on their own.

Then, two weeks ago, we were driving up a mountain pass between Zenica and Bugojno, on a road called Kovacica.  It was early afternoon and we were making our way towards Kupres and the riding holiday ranch we would be volunteering at there.  As we entered one of the hairpin turns climbing up, a movement in brown caught our attention.  I turned my head and made eye contact with the saddest, skinniest, most pathetic looking dog I’d yet seen on our trip.  My heart simply stopped beating for a moment.  And then we were through the turn and the dog was behind us.  Travis and I went back and forth for a few moments, before he drew my attention to our petrol situation, with was fairly severe.  I subsided in to silence, reminding myself of my line in the sand.  As we neared a pull out area, before I’d even realised the words were thoughts in my head, I told Travis to turn around.

We named Kova after the road we found her on.  When we went back for her, she was sitting at the side of the road, waiting for us.  She came running at my first whistle.  She was covered in fleas and ticks of course, and had minor mange.  She was starving, and cold, and grateful.  We took her to the first veterinarian we found, got her treated for worms and parasites, gave her a microchip and a Rabies vaccination, and paid for her Passport.  Within three hours, Kova was entirely ready to be adopted out to a forever home.  I had readjusted my line in the sand: if an animal was clearly starving and in a condition where they would not survive the environment (as short coated Kova would not have survived a winter on the mountain), we could attempt to assist.  And if they proved as willing to be rescued as our little red haired girl, we would search for permanent homes for them with the help of our followers.

Kova has a home in Italy lined up with an American military family there.  Our network and a good friend made the connection possible within 24 hours of us picking her up.  While we wait to be able to transport her, we’re fattening her up and giving her lessons on what it means to be a house dog.  She’s a willing student if you ignore the fact that she’s constantly on the counters, in the trash, and begging at meal time… ok, so she has some things to learn still.

I’d be lying if I said this will be a one off thing.  We can’t rescue all the animals, but Kova’s reminded me that that doesn’t mean we shouldn’t try when the timing is right and our heart tells us to stop.  I imagine they’ll be other rescues on this journey, and though we won’t go looking for them, we’ll be open to them if they come along.  This is one thing that I’m really, really good at; and one that has so many rewards for so little risk.  After all, what’s one more animal when you’ve already got a menagerie?

 

A Late Beginning

Well, what can I say.  Surely I’m a prime example of what happens when good intensions meet superior procrastination.  We’re 120 days in to this trip and I’m only just now getting around to actually starting this blog.  I’d like to have thousands of wonderfully exciting reasons and activities that have kept me too busy to write up until now, but the simple truth is that I was not ready to write.

The first 120 days of this journey have been hard, sometimes heartbreakingly so.  While some of the difficulties have stemmed from the reality of travelling with 12 animals in a tiny caravan, limited financial resources, and absolutely no game plan, its really been the lingering emotional upheaval I left behind that has caused the most trouble.  They say you can’t run from your past, or hide from it, or otherwise put any amount of distance between you and it that will soften the blows or ease the hurts.  Well, the first 120 days have reinforced that lesson to a degree that I sometimes wonder is really necessary.  After all, I came out here seeking something, not running away from something, or so I thought anyways.

In any case, after 120 days, I’m finally feel ready to face the prospect of putting the details of my journey down in words.  I’m not sure exactly how I will approach this, so please bear with me.  Do I back track to the beginning and relive those first few months until we’re all caught up?  Do I start here, fresh,  in hopes that not rehashing the hardships makes for lighter, more enjoyable reading?  Do I just intertwine the pleasant travel memories that already are into part of the stories going forward and forget the emotional exhaustion that almost drove me to give this journey up?  I suppose we will just have to wait to see.  But however things go, this is my new beginning; late, but finally here.

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